BOARDING and PET SITTING- a tribute to Roman

    I'm glad I'm home alone as I write because my heart is still breaking.  But in honor of Roman's life and the mistakes I made when I left him in someone else's care, I want to give readers some guidelines and precautions to take for those dreaded times when we have to go away without our beloved animals.
    Whether you choose to board or have an in home pet sitter, there is so much more to consider than just cost and facility.  Relationships can be utterly destroyed when decisions are made while you are away that you wouldn't have agreed to.
   

My husband and I went out of the country and left a family member to watch after our farm and the critters we consider our children.  Yes, I am without a doubt, a dog person, but I've had a Bengal cat for 6 years who was the love of my life.  He was wild.  He was crazy.  He was funny.  He never shut up.  He loved to hide from me and scare me to death when I discovered him.  And now he's gone... forever.
   Roman, being Bengal, was truly half wild animal (Asian leopard) and never took to using a litter box.  He would only go potty outside.  Every time I opened the door and let him out I knew it was a risk.  But I had no choice.
   So, the day after we left on our trip, when he came back in the house with what appeared to be a broken leg and was vomiting, I could not blame the sitter.  However, the fact that he was left in that condition for 5 days, suffering, and then put back outside, where he was apparently carried off by coyotes or wandered into the woods to die, is unforgivable. 
   I had left a note with a list of phone numbers and basic instructions, but had not been specific.
Here I will give you a list of questions and topics to discuss in detail with your care giver.  If only, I had done this before...

1.  Should the caregiver notify you if there is ANY problem?  If you do not wish to be contacted, or can not be contacted, then a very specific set of instructions needs to be in writing.
Examples:
Vomitting or diarrhea- go to vet. 
 Limping, but still walking- just monitor.  
Not eating- monitor. After 3 days- call vet.
Urinating on the floor- go to vet.
Blood in stool- call vet. 
Eye problems- go to vet.  Etc., etc. etc.  
  
2.  Who should make the decision if an animal needs medical attention?  The care giver?  A close friend?  Do you trust their judgement?  I did.  I was sadly mistaken.  A better discussion would have been to have the care giver take the animal to the vet and let a medical professional determine how serious the injury/illness is.

3.  To what extent should the animal be given medical treatment?  A dollar amount?  Life saving procedures and treatment only?  Comfort treatment? Spare no expense?  Hospitalize until owner returns?

4.  What if the animal gets away?  Does the care giver know how to access local Lost/Found Pet Sights?  Does he/she know your pet's favorite words that will lure him back?  "Treat!"  "Cookie!"  "Ride in the car?!?"
Does the care giver have his microchip number?   (Get your pets microchipped!)  Does the microchip company have your caregiver's phone number?

5.  Call your vet and authorize your care giver to consent to treatment and discuss payment.

6.  Is the care giver allowed to take your pet off the property- like to the dog park or to a friend's house?  Should your pet interact with any other pets?

7.  Who is allowed to handle your pet or be on your property?  Boyfriend?  Sibling?  Son or daughter?  Are you OK with your pet sitter's 8 year old daughter walking your dog around the block or the kennel worker playing tug o' war with your puppy?

8.  In the event of death, which unfortunately happens, what should the care giver do with the body?

    Lastly, here's what you need to remember: the person whom you have trusted with your animals is most likely as upset as you are that something has gone wrong.  They may be at fault for what happened, but they also may not have been.  Things happen.  Bad things happen.  When animals are not in their usual routines, weird changes can come about both behaviorally and medically.  Being angry at someone will not fix the situation.  You will be devastated if anything goes wrong.  But try not to jump on the blame train.
    Take good precautions to cover ALL your bases with safety and communication before you leave. Double check fences, gates, locks and collars. 
 Make sure your care giver has clear instructions on how to handle every situation you can think of and never assume that they would handle it like you would.  Because odds are- they won't. People all are individuals and react differently to the same situations.
    And for those of you who are care givers; cover your own bases and ask these questions so that in the event of the unthinkable, you can at least do exactly what the owner would have done if they were home.

I'm sorry Roman~ I'm so so sorry~

RAW. You feed your dog WHAT?!?!?!???

RAW- it's what's for dinner at our house.  Our dogs eat out of the fridge- not out of the bag.
But why and how???  Here's some basics in case your tired of scary recalls and high prices and sick dogs...

Let's start with the WHY:
1.  Dog food you buy at the store or vet office- even top quality/expensive/ fancy commercial dog food- is made in a plant somewhere far away.  It is processed.  Regardless of how safe and how meticulous the process, it is processed.  And because it contains "meat"- and I use that term loosely- it has preservatives of some sort.  Most of your hard earned dollars are paying for the process- not the food.  Bags and packages, marketing, labor, factory overhead, shipping- that's what you're paying for!  And to keep the food from costing more than your house mortgage, they use the cheapest forms of ingredients- yes even your expensive food with the wild animal on the bag.
2. WHY:  Your dog itches, his ears smell gross, he licks his paws, his skin is red, his eyes are weepy, his hair is thin, he has no energy, he's always hungry, he has no focus or attention span, is hyper and he poops several times a day, etc. etc. etc.  The WHY is because your dog's body is expending all it's good stuff trying to figure out how to un-process and use the garbage that was in his bowl.

SO now here's the HOW (and it's much simpler than you think.) 
 I've heard comments like "I don't have time to cook for my dog."  Um, that's why it's called "RAW."  You don't cook it! 
 I've also heard "Doesn't it cost way too much?"
The answer is NO!  It costs around $7/week to feed a relatively large dog, which in most cases is much less than expensive store bought dog food.

So, how do you figure out what to feed?
1.  Think like a dog.  If we did not feed them, they would catch and eat animals- raw.  They munch on grasses and some vegetation.   But the majority of their diet would be high quality protein.  They do not whip out their cell phone and check calorie counts and nutrient charts.  It's not that complicated!
2.  How much to feed?  A good rule of thumb (or paw) is about 1/2lb of food per 25lbs. of dog, but their metabolisms and exercise levels are all different, so that varies.  Ninja- the dog pictured raiding the refrigerator was way too thin when we got him, but has gained 9lbs. in 2 months on raw.  Steel, my little pork chop has lost 5lbs because we focus more on fiber and low fat content.
3.  My ingredients:  Blood bone meats like turkey necks, ox tails, chicken quarters, salmon, sardines (packed in water- not soy oil) and eggs.  I also get scraps from the meat plants for free which include nice big femur bones, unbleached tripe and gross organs that are icky to look at but SO GOOD for your dog.  
I throw in a smorgasbord of veggies and fruits, bananas, apples, green beans, broccoli, carrots, etc.  And then some good mushy stuff- plain greek yogurt and pumpkin.
I throw the veggies in a food processor to rough chop and give it some crunch and then throw everything else in the blender to make a grool.
 Then I fill a pitcher with it and store it in the fridge.  I can make 3 gallons of food in 10 minutes.  And it's up to you how high quality your ingredients are.  Personally, I'm on an Aldi's budget, but organic or fresh is awesome if you can afford it!
*You do have to be sure to treat their food as you would yours.  Don't leave it out.  Keep it frozen or refrigerated.  Wash your hands and dog dishes after each meal.  The good news is that dogs' digestive systems are much more acidic than humans' so they are not as prone to things like salmonella. 
Each dog gets a piece of meat (bones included) and a cup of grool.
Coconut oil and sardines are wonderful for older dogs with urine incontinence and dementia!  Oatmeal can be added to firm up stools.  Natural peanut butter can add calories.  You can play with your recipe gradually till you find the perfect combination that makes your dog shine!
As always, check with your veterinarian and google ingredients and be sure you're not feeding anything toxic like grapes or raisins.  Many vets are not on board with the RAW diet yet, but contemporary veterinarians are seeing the benefits and encouraging a raw diet.
 When you first introduce your dog to raw, start slowly!  Add one ingredient at a time, so if something doesn't agree with him, you will know which one it is.  Occasionally dogs get diarrhea at first, but just go slow- unless you have billy goats like mine that can eat anything!
And lastly, don't back track by feeding garbage treats!  There is so much poison in those store bought things.  Home made whole treats are much cheaper and healthier!

Therapy Dog or Service Dog

Sooooo, I'm working a German Shepherd that is in training to become a service dog.  He has a Service Dog vest and I'm in a store shopping for shampoo.  As I'm standing with a bottle in my hand reading the back label, an employee approaches me and asks "Is that a seeing eye dog?"  My answer- "Yes.  He's reading this shampoo bottle to me telepathically."
Here's what you need to know about Service Dogs and Therapy Dogs and the difference between the two...

1.  By definition, a SERVICE DOG performs a task that the handler is not capable of doing for himself.  Seeing, hearing, alerting of medical conditions, retrieving, stabilizing, etc.  A service dog should be wearing I.D. and is allowed by law into any establishment.  Cesar Millan- I love you- but Junior is NOT doing anything you can't and shouldn't be given Service Dog status just so you can fly with him.
Interacting with a service dog:
Do not stare.
Do not avoid eye contact.
Do not pet a working service dog.
Do not ask the handler "What does he do?"  Rude 101.  That's like asking someone in line at the pharmacy what they are getting medicine for.  It's none of your business.
If you must- simply compliment the handler on having a wonderful dog.  Keep moving.

2.  THERAPY DOGS only need to be well behaved and obedient.  Their main task is to provide stress relief and comfort by simply being a dog.  There are several organizations that provide certifications for therapy work but it is not required.  Certification is merely proof that the dog has demonstrated his ability to behave appropriately in public situations and some organizations insure their certified dogs in case of the unexpected.
If you ask first, it's usually quite fine to pet a Therapy Dog.
   I get a lot of requests from people wanting service dogs, who do not have a medical prescription or a disability for which the dog can compensate.  Many people simply feel better if their dog is with them and would like to be able to take them every where they go.  I wish we lived in a world where that was possible, but right now it's just not legal!
More and more businesses are allowing you to bring you dog.  If you do take your dog in these places, be sure they are well behaved and do NOT leave a mess!  I always make a point of thanking the owner/manager for allowing me to shop with my dog.  I tell them when I have chosen to make a purchase from them rather than a competitor based on the fact that I was allowed to bring my dog in- especially in the summer when it's too hot to leave them in the car!

Positively Politically Correct

Everyone's enjoying my blogs so much, I might as well shake the trees a little bit...
So the hot marketing term these days is "Positive" training.  It sounds so pleasant, doesn't it? -  A wonderful world of unicorns and rainbows and dog treats where no one ever says the word "NO" and doggies get to choose to be good and obedient just because they love us sooooooo much.
   But before we poke the bear, lets briefly discuss the term "POSITIVE."
   I am a HUGE advocate for positive training. You'll rarely see me without a pouch of  smelly meat on my hip.   However, the unlearned dog community has twisted the term "Positive" to mean "Nothing Negative."  When in fact, the term "positive" actually means "ADD."  Simply put- if the dog does something desirable, we add a treat or toy or some form of praise. That's the part everyone enjoys.  However,  if he does something undesirable we either add a correction or subtract a reward.
   So, in hunting for a good trainer, don't be duped by someone's claim to be "positive."  I don't know of any trainers that are foolish enough to not be positive when the dog does what it's asked.  At the same time, one of the most harsh trainers I have observed claims "positive based training" - which is accurate because this trainer does give (add) rewards for good behavior.  The same trainer gives (adds) grave consequences for disobedience.
This blog is boring so far, isn't it???  So sorry, but this is a topic that really grates my cheese.
    There are also trainers that claim to be 100% Positive and Force Free.  In other words, they only use methods that allow the dog the choice to do what he is told.  There are also big discrepancies in many of those claims as well, but I don't want to go on and on about that.
 I choose to use the term "Balance" in training.  Why? Because I believe the world is full of YES and NO.
Did the dog sit when I told him to?  YES!  Reward! Reward! Reward!!!!
Is the dog allowed to run into the road?  NO!  And if he disobeys me, there will be consequences- Natural consequences such as death or serious injury, or perhaps a form of correction that I choose to administer.
Did the dog come when I called?  YES!  Reward! Reward! Reward!
Is it OK for the dog to bite my friends when they come in my house?  NO!  Consequence- being deemed a vicious dog and euthanized, or perhaps a form of correction that I choose to administer.
    I could go on and on with examples of YES and NO.  However, I won't because you get the idea.
   It boils down to this... your dog is not going to CHOOSE to obey you 100% of the time just because you have a treat, or you hug him, or he loves you.  There will be times when you don't have a treat to bribe him, or a toy to distract or redirect him, or the squirrel scampering up the neighbor's tree is just way more fun than you.  If you are not going to instill a very clear matter of fact communication of Yes and No, you have to be 100% on your game 100% of the time.
  If you choose to never teach your dog that there is consequence for disobeying, then you must take all responsibility for his behavior 100% of the time.  Fence your yard.  Be sure there is never a hole in the fence.  Be sure your leash never breaks.  Be sure your collar never slips.  Be sure no one holds the front door open too long.  Be sure the gate is never left open.
  Because when he runs out- and he will- and you yell "NOOOOOO!" as the UPS truck barrels down the street towards him- he will not have any clue what you are saying.
   And that is just for running into the street.  Imagine all the other theoretical consequences that can happen if he chooses to not obey in other scenarios.
   So, how do we correct a dog, fairly communicating that his behavior is undesirable without being a complete jerk?  That totally depends on the dog.  Some dogs are sensitive and want to please and a simple firm voice is enough to stop him from misbehaving.  Others need a physical correction.
    Eliminate any trace of anger or frustration in your corrections because they take away your ability to be fair.  All you have to do is communicate that the dog's behavior is undesirable.  Do it as softly as possible and as firm as necessary.  Your correction should change the behavior- not the dog.  If he pauses and returns to the bad behavior, you've not corrected- you've just interrupted.  Up your game.  If he hides under the bed from you afterwards- you've wayyyyyyy over done it.  Calm down.
    I see far too many clients who are afraid to correct their dog (or child) in public for fear of what people around them will think.  However, if you give an effective and fair correction and the dog responds, poo poo-ers will see that you are a good dog owner.
   We need to spend much more time worrying about the well being and safety of our dogs and much less time trying to be politically correct.
*** Now if you're disappointed that this blog wasn't charming and witty- my apologies, but let me  end by telling you that one of my dogs just loudly passed gas and then looked at her tail as if a rude stranger was under there.
   

TIGGER SYNDROM

It's probably THE most common problem I get asked to fix...  the CONSTANT JUMPING!  Personally, I celebrate a dog that is outgoing and friendly, but when my nose got broken by what I call a "GREETER OVER ACHIEVER" (yes, that happened) that's where we have to draw the line.
QUESTION: why do dogs jump on people???
ANSWER:  because we train them to jump on people the second we bring them home.
Seriously- what is the normal human response to seeing a puppy- any puppy?
Your voice goes up into an octave that only dolphins can hear.  You get crazy excited and you PICK THE PUPPY UP.  RIGHT?!?!?!?!?
So, from day one, these short legged, chubby cheeked, milk breath smelling heart melters get trained that humans = excitement and UP.  They spend the rest of their lives trying to get in the face of everyone they meet because that is how they were trained to greet.
FIX: Stop ruining puppies!  I know it's hard, but for the love of all that's good and pure, CALM YOURSELF!  Stoop down to the puppy.  Enjoy it's cuteness to your heart's desire- but do it quietly and with the pup firmly planted on the floor.  If you are the owner/operator of a new puppy, insist that anyone you encounter does the same.  Do not let people pick your puppy up!  They can get down on the puppy's level and snuggle and smooch all they want.  
SUGGESTION:  charge offenders $20 and tell them it's going into the puppy's training fund because you are going to have to hire a trainer to undo what they've just done.  (just kidding)  (not really)
CORRECTION:  If you have a dog that has been trained to jump on people, the first step to changing that behavior is to stop rewarding it.  Let's face it- how long would you continue to go to work if they stopped giving you paychecks???  Not long, right?
So, when Tigger stops getting paid for bouncing, Tigger will stop bouncing.  You have to remember that dogs see reward in many forms other than just Milk Bones.  Any form of non violent touch, voice and eye contact are all communication that you approve of the behavior that he is offering.  Holding on to his collar = reward because it is touch. 
 Looking at him = reward because you are engaging him and giving him attention.  
Shouting, squealing, crying, laughing = reward plus a BONUS- excitement.
The correction is actually quite simple if you follow through. 
1.  Put a leash on your dog.
2,  Stand on the leash so that Tigger only has enough room to stand up normally- no extra length.
3.  Instruct your company to completely ignore Tigger unless ALL 4 of his feet are on the floor.
4.  WAIT!  Don't be in such a hurry to have everyone interact.  Patience and ignoring are the key.  As in my last blog called Silence is Golden- keep quiet.  When everyone calms down, Tigger will too.  That is when you allow him to be acknowledged.  However, if at any time, he escalates back into crazy world, you simply stop and start over.  

BONUS EXERCISE:  Arm your company with treats and upon meeting Tigger, have them throw treats on the floor at Tigger's feet.  He will get conditioned to good things coming from below instead of above and begin to anticipate the floor rather than faces!

Silence is Golden

So, while you are trying to read a text message, or count your money, or find an address, someone is talking non-stop to you.  How does that make you feel???  Probably want to scream SHUT UP!!!  I'M TRYING TO THINK!  Right?!?!?!
     So, why do we constantly talk AT our dogs?  We take them to the vet, or somebody passes them on the street pushing a stroller, or the garbage man slams the empty cans down and our dogs immediately show concern and are on full alert.
     PROBLEM: As human beings, we have a bad habit of trying to explain everything to them.  "It's OK, Buddy, you just have to get a shot- it will only hurt for a second and then Mommy's gonna take you to Dairy Queen and get your favorite ice cream!  Or do you wanna go with Mommy to the Pet Store and pick out a bone, You wanna do that, Buddy?!? Huh?  You wanna get a new toy?  Huh, Buddy???  Mommy will get you a new toy....."  
   Meanwhile Buddy is wishing you would shut the heck up so he could concentrate on the smells and sounds around him and process what this all is about.  He needs you to be calm and quiet and set an example of confidence by using your body language and calm positive energy.  When he is allowed time to log information into his brain about his surroundings, it builds on the experience for next time.  If you are a good, confident leader, he will triumph even through bad things knowing that you were always in control of him and his situation.
   Being aware of our surroundings and using our body to tell our dogs that everything is OK, is the most powerful thing we can do.  It doesn't matter how many hundreds of words you try to comfort them with, if your own emotion is one of concern- that's what your dog will associate with the situation- even if your concern is for him.  All he knows is that you are worried and so he will follow suit and become worried.  In another blog we will explore the damage done when we pet and praise our dogs when they are behaving inappropriately-
    SOLUTION:  Try these 3 exercises... 
1.  Move your dog around the room using only your body.  Call him to you by smiling brightly and and lifting your eyebrows and bending over and patting your legs.  BE SILENT!  It's HARD to do, but so good for both of you!
2.  Now take it to the streets- Get your leash and (silently) attach it to your dog and walk energetically out to your yard as though Santa Claus himself is awaiting him with a bag full of T Bone Steaks.  Without saying a word, notice if your dog begins to look around anxiously anticipating something wonderful.  He will, once you both learn to get back to basics.  Body language.
   Here's part 3 of your homework:  With your dog on leash, walk through your house and then come to a complete stop.  Without telling your dog to sit or saying a single word, stand still as though your batteries had just gone dead.  Don't pull the leash.  Don't correct or control him.  Don't make eye contact with your dog.  Just stand there like you're in the line at the DMV.  Lean against a wall and breathe deeply and completely relax.  See how long it takes for your dog to sit down or lay down and wait.
   When you can do these exercises successfully, you will have tapped into the amazingly complicated, but profoundly simple language of the dog!
   MEMORY LESSON: HE DOESN'T NEED YOU TO EXPLAIN, HE NEEDS YOU TO LEAD!