EMBRACE FAILURE!

Say What???

We live in a society of perfection.  We have selfie apps that remove your blemishes and make you look thinner.  We have an edit option and auto correct that hopefully keeps us from revealing our lack of spelling and good grammar.  We are flooded with images of successful people doing amazing things.

And then, there's us.  And our dog.

Personally, I have learned to embrace mistakes because it's like a big fat sign that says "HERE'S WHAT YOU NEED TO WORK ON!"  One walk through the park with my dog, and I'm painfully clear where I have not spent enough time training.  But hey!  That takes all the guess work out of it!

So, your dog acts like a blooming idiot in public.  He barks.  Or he lunges.  Or he pulls to the point that he gags himself.  So you just stay home.

Most people don't have any idea how to correct bad behavior, and even if they did, they are so afraid of "what people would think" that they keep their dog within the confines of their own home and pray no one ever comes over.

I recently took a very reactive dog to the dog park for training.  I kept him on leash and minded my own business.  A few dogs wouldn't leave us alone and I had to correct the dog I was working to keep him safe.  One owner snatched his very rude dog up and stomped away shouting "WE'LL JUST GO!"

I couldn't blame him.  He didn't know the circumstances at all.  If the roles were reversed, I'm sure I would have thought "What kind of idiot brings a dog like that to the dog park???"  I had a GREAT session with the dog there, but I went home literally sick at my stomach after the way people looked at me.  I was so glad I wasn't wearing anything that identified myself!  I was clearly the most hated person at the dog park.

So, I feel your pain.  And I have some advice for you...

1.  Learn from a Behavior Modification Specialist how to correct your problems.  General dog trainers are wonderful, but are often only experienced with the positive side of teaching behaviors, not correcting them.  Make sure you work with someone who has experience in behavior modification.

2.  Practice successfully.  Train your dog to respond to redirection when there is NO challenge.  Develop a clear communication of expectations and the reward/consequence system.  Do this in your house or yard with no one else around.

3.  Once you have accomplished teaching your dog to obey you, regardless of distractions, then set out and seek challenges.  Your attitude is reflected and amplified in your dog.  So if you see a dog, or squirrel or bike coming toward you and think to yourself "Oh. Crap" your dog will definitely pick up on that and go into defense mode.  He will want to defend you both from whatever made your mood change.

4.  Train a loose leash walk that does not transmit tension.  Keep your eyes up and embrace a challenge.  Try this thought process: "Oh good!  A dog (or squirrel or bike) is coming!  That will give me a real life opportunity to practice!"
  Then carry out your training plan.
If the dog makes a mistake- GOOD!  It gives you an opportunity to let him know that was not right.  Then let him try again!

5.  Distance is your friend-  if you can make your dog sit or stand quietly (I require them to sit) 500 feet away from whatever his trigger is, you have been successful!  Celebrate and reward!!!
Maybe tomorrow your goal can be 400 feet.  But for today- he did good!  Be happy with that and build from there.

Your dog may never be friendly with all dogs or people.  But let your goal be obedience- at any distance and in any form.  And if you fail, take note of what went wrong, and be conscientious about what you need to work on more.  Don't quit!  Limiting your dog's activity and experiences will not make him better.  It will make him worse.  Why should his life be small and boring just because you don't feel up to the challenge of teaching him how to navigate a world that is HUGE and FUN!!!

Now get out there!!!

SAME SEX- what no one told you-

I can't tell you how many times I've been called for a behavior consultation into a home where dogs are fighting.  "They love each other one minute and the next, they're trying to kill each other." And almost always, it's dogs of the same sex.
  So often, "Littermate Syndrome" or something very much like it is the problem.  And people always say "I wish someone had told us about this!"
   Littermate syndrome: someone goes to the breeder, the shelter, the pet store and sees puppies- they can not decide which one they want and they seem so bonded, it would be a shame to break them up- so they get 2.
   But Littermate Syndrome is not limited to littermates.  I prefer the term "Gladiator Syndrome."
Gladiators are 2 very closely matched rivals- usually same sex, same size, same temperament, same age, same human parents... etc. etc. etc.
   The problem is that there is no natural determining factor which makes one or the other obviously more dominant.  In natural canine behavior, there are scraps or fights.  Someone wins.  Someone loses.  And the loser gives it up.  He either submits to the more dominant pack member or he moves on to form his own pack.
   However, in our homes, we break up fights because
#1 It scares the crap out of us and
#2 We don't want to pay vet bills or lose a dog
So, the dogs never get to determine once and for all who is in charge.

HOWEVER- this is a false pretense from the start.  And here's the helpful part of this little article-
NO DOG is in charge.  YOU ARE IN CHARGE.  They don't need to fight over food, because YOU are the supplier and provider.  They don't need to fight over bones or toys, because you bought and own the toys.  They don't need to fight over who gets to sit next to you on the couch, because being on the couch requires your authorization.

But establishing that concept is the most commonly missed order of business in most households. We bring them home and give them the keys to the kingdom.  We keep dishes full and floors littered with half chewed bones and ripped up toys as though we are their indentured servants.
Here are some basic rules to follow to take back leadership of your pack if there is fighting and how to avoid it in selecting future family members.

Leadership or "dominance" which has become the politically incorrect term, but whatever... is most clearly taught through basic obedience.  Setting rules and structure and a reward and consequence system is easily established with 5 minutes of obedience practice several days a week.

Put your dog on leash and practice "sit" with reward.  Practice "lay down" with reward.  Practice "come" with reward.   Then, incorporate those behaviors into every day life.  Dog must sit to be fed.  Dog must lay down to have leash put on.  Dog must sit before crossing street on walks.  Dog gets a treat for coming in the house when called.  Chew bones or toys are given and then taken and put away for a later time.  Something as simple as that teaches your dog to look to you for leadership.

Feeding Circle is another wonderful exercise that teaches dogs respect and patience and that fighting is not the way to get rewards.  Here is a short video you can watch to see how dogs are focused and respectful of one another and learning that all good things come from MAMA!  https://youtu.be/travbAhGyao

Secondly, when adding a dog to your family, way too many people want one exactly like the dog they already have.  Unfortunately, that seldom turns out to be the case and they often wind up very disappointed that Dog #2 is nothing like Dog #1.
But to avoid, issues, GO OPPOSITE.  Opposite sex.  Opposite size.  Different  age.  Different breeds.
Another misconception is that if you have 2 that are alike, they will keep each other company.  If they do bond so closely that they only need each other, it creates another issue in that they don't need their owner and will often disregard them or have very little respect for them.

Now before you fire off your "I have same sex, same breed, littermates, etc." comment to me-
understand that I have 5 dogs-   but as within a wild pack, my structure is evident and no one needs to fight about anything, so they all commune quite well. We are careful to manage and crate if there is no supervision or challenges present themselves- as in, I have a 13 year old Akita who is inexplicably grumpy at times.
  If your dogs get along, CONGRATULATIONS!  You are doing something right and it is possible!

Two of these 3 Chihuahua were death matched rivals until their owner stepped up- and now... well, look at them!
Chihuahuas owned by Jamie Wilson
Crested Hairless owned by Matt & Lauri Meins pictured at top, couldn't even be in the same room when I met them.

BOARDING and PET SITTING- a tribute to Roman

    I'm glad I'm home alone as I write because my heart is still breaking.  But in honor of Roman's life and the mistakes I made when I left him in someone else's care, I want to give readers some guidelines and precautions to take for those dreaded times when we have to go away without our beloved animals.
    Whether you choose to board or have an in home pet sitter, there is so much more to consider than just cost and facility.  Relationships can be utterly destroyed when decisions are made while you are away that you wouldn't have agreed to.
   

My husband and I went out of the country and left a family member to watch after our farm and the critters we consider our children.  Yes, I am without a doubt, a dog person, but I've had a Bengal cat for 6 years who was the love of my life.  He was wild.  He was crazy.  He was funny.  He never shut up.  He loved to hide from me and scare me to death when I discovered him.  And now he's gone... forever.
   Roman, being Bengal, was truly half wild animal (Asian leopard) and never took to using a litter box.  He would only go potty outside.  Every time I opened the door and let him out I knew it was a risk.  But I had no choice.
   So, the day after we left on our trip, when he came back in the house with what appeared to be a broken leg and was vomiting, I could not blame the sitter.  However, the fact that he was left in that condition for 5 days, suffering, and then put back outside, where he was apparently carried off by coyotes or wandered into the woods to die, is unforgivable. 
   I had left a note with a list of phone numbers and basic instructions, but had not been specific.
Here I will give you a list of questions and topics to discuss in detail with your care giver.  If only, I had done this before...

1.  Should the caregiver notify you if there is ANY problem?  If you do not wish to be contacted, or can not be contacted, then a very specific set of instructions needs to be in writing.
Examples:
Vomitting or diarrhea- go to vet. 
 Limping, but still walking- just monitor.  
Not eating- monitor. After 3 days- call vet.
Urinating on the floor- go to vet.
Blood in stool- call vet. 
Eye problems- go to vet.  Etc., etc. etc.  
  
2.  Who should make the decision if an animal needs medical attention?  The care giver?  A close friend?  Do you trust their judgement?  I did.  I was sadly mistaken.  A better discussion would have been to have the care giver take the animal to the vet and let a medical professional determine how serious the injury/illness is.

3.  To what extent should the animal be given medical treatment?  A dollar amount?  Life saving procedures and treatment only?  Comfort treatment? Spare no expense?  Hospitalize until owner returns?

4.  What if the animal gets away?  Does the care giver know how to access local Lost/Found Pet Sights?  Does he/she know your pet's favorite words that will lure him back?  "Treat!"  "Cookie!"  "Ride in the car?!?"
Does the care giver have his microchip number?   (Get your pets microchipped!)  Does the microchip company have your caregiver's phone number?

5.  Call your vet and authorize your care giver to consent to treatment and discuss payment.

6.  Is the care giver allowed to take your pet off the property- like to the dog park or to a friend's house?  Should your pet interact with any other pets?

7.  Who is allowed to handle your pet or be on your property?  Boyfriend?  Sibling?  Son or daughter?  Are you OK with your pet sitter's 8 year old daughter walking your dog around the block or the kennel worker playing tug o' war with your puppy?

8.  In the event of death, which unfortunately happens, what should the care giver do with the body?

    Lastly, here's what you need to remember: the person whom you have trusted with your animals is most likely as upset as you are that something has gone wrong.  They may be at fault for what happened, but they also may not have been.  Things happen.  Bad things happen.  When animals are not in their usual routines, weird changes can come about both behaviorally and medically.  Being angry at someone will not fix the situation.  You will be devastated if anything goes wrong.  But try not to jump on the blame train.
    Take good precautions to cover ALL your bases with safety and communication before you leave. Double check fences, gates, locks and collars. 
 Make sure your care giver has clear instructions on how to handle every situation you can think of and never assume that they would handle it like you would.  Because odds are- they won't. People all are individuals and react differently to the same situations.
    And for those of you who are care givers; cover your own bases and ask these questions so that in the event of the unthinkable, you can at least do exactly what the owner would have done if they were home.

I'm sorry Roman~ I'm so so sorry~

RAW. You feed your dog WHAT?!?!?!???

RAW- it's what's for dinner at our house.  Our dogs eat out of the fridge- not out of the bag.
But why and how???  Here's some basics in case your tired of scary recalls and high prices and sick dogs...

Let's start with the WHY:
1.  Dog food you buy at the store or vet office- even top quality/expensive/ fancy commercial dog food- is made in a plant somewhere far away.  It is processed.  Regardless of how safe and how meticulous the process, it is processed.  And because it contains "meat"- and I use that term loosely- it has preservatives of some sort.  Most of your hard earned dollars are paying for the process- not the food.  Bags and packages, marketing, labor, factory overhead, shipping- that's what you're paying for!  And to keep the food from costing more than your house mortgage, they use the cheapest forms of ingredients- yes even your expensive food with the wild animal on the bag.
2. WHY:  Your dog itches, his ears smell gross, he licks his paws, his skin is red, his eyes are weepy, his hair is thin, he has no energy, he's always hungry, he has no focus or attention span, is hyper and he poops several times a day, etc. etc. etc.  The WHY is because your dog's body is expending all it's good stuff trying to figure out how to un-process and use the garbage that was in his bowl.

SO now here's the HOW (and it's much simpler than you think.) 
 I've heard comments like "I don't have time to cook for my dog."  Um, that's why it's called "RAW."  You don't cook it! 
 I've also heard "Doesn't it cost way too much?"
The answer is NO!  It costs around $7/week to feed a relatively large dog, which in most cases is much less than expensive store bought dog food.

So, how do you figure out what to feed?
1.  Think like a dog.  If we did not feed them, they would catch and eat animals- raw.  They munch on grasses and some vegetation.   But the majority of their diet would be high quality protein.  They do not whip out their cell phone and check calorie counts and nutrient charts.  It's not that complicated!
2.  How much to feed?  A good rule of thumb (or paw) is about 1/2lb of food per 25lbs. of dog, but their metabolisms and exercise levels are all different, so that varies.  Ninja- the dog pictured raiding the refrigerator was way too thin when we got him, but has gained 9lbs. in 2 months on raw.  Steel, my little pork chop has lost 5lbs because we focus more on fiber and low fat content.
3.  My ingredients:  Blood bone meats like turkey necks, ox tails, chicken quarters, salmon, sardines (packed in water- not soy oil) and eggs.  I also get scraps from the meat plants for free which include nice big femur bones, unbleached tripe and gross organs that are icky to look at but SO GOOD for your dog.  
I throw in a smorgasbord of veggies and fruits, bananas, apples, green beans, broccoli, carrots, etc.  And then some good mushy stuff- plain greek yogurt and pumpkin.
I throw the veggies in a food processor to rough chop and give it some crunch and then throw everything else in the blender to make a grool.
 Then I fill a pitcher with it and store it in the fridge.  I can make 3 gallons of food in 10 minutes.  And it's up to you how high quality your ingredients are.  Personally, I'm on an Aldi's budget, but organic or fresh is awesome if you can afford it!
*You do have to be sure to treat their food as you would yours.  Don't leave it out.  Keep it frozen or refrigerated.  Wash your hands and dog dishes after each meal.  The good news is that dogs' digestive systems are much more acidic than humans' so they are not as prone to things like salmonella. 
Each dog gets a piece of meat (bones included) and a cup of grool.
Coconut oil and sardines are wonderful for older dogs with urine incontinence and dementia!  Oatmeal can be added to firm up stools.  Natural peanut butter can add calories.  You can play with your recipe gradually till you find the perfect combination that makes your dog shine!
As always, check with your veterinarian and google ingredients and be sure you're not feeding anything toxic like grapes or raisins.  Many vets are not on board with the RAW diet yet, but contemporary veterinarians are seeing the benefits and encouraging a raw diet.
 When you first introduce your dog to raw, start slowly!  Add one ingredient at a time, so if something doesn't agree with him, you will know which one it is.  Occasionally dogs get diarrhea at first, but just go slow- unless you have billy goats like mine that can eat anything!
And lastly, don't back track by feeding garbage treats!  There is so much poison in those store bought things.  Home made whole treats are much cheaper and healthier!